My Blog
My Blog
Mull Rock
I thought it would be good to make people aware of what is available after all the work that has gone into the guide.
Scottish Mountaineer published a short article on the guide.
I offered to write an article for Climber mag (twice) last year, I also made the same offer to Climb mag and didn’t get a reply from either crowd.
UKC should publish an article but spring will probably be over before it appears so I’m doing some more stuff on here.
Mull has an amazing variety of rock types, giving varied climbing and scenery. The climbs are included in the new SMC guide ‘Inner Hebrides and Arran’ The bolted lines are in another SMC guide ‘Scottish Sport Climbs’. The map above is based on a Susan Jensen map.
BASALT
A basalt dyke at Duart is composed of compact rock with no cracks so a handful of routes have been bolted. The climbing is often on small flakes, F5 to F6b.
The lighthouse is over 100 years old, much younger than the more traditional ‘Stevenson lighthouses’.
Photo is me on Women and Children First F6a+ (FA), Andy Hyslop photo.
BRECCIA
A little of this rock is found on west central Mull, it is similar to conglomerate but with angular rather than round holds, there are also a few flakes and pockets. There are half a dozen quick drying routes that have been bolted F5 to F6b.
Photo is Josef on Smoked Out F5+.
DOLERITE
There are hundreds of climbs on dolerite crags to go at, these are mostly round the west coast and extend over most of Mull. Climbs often follow well protected cracks but there are also face climbs on flakes and crimps. Ardtun north east of Bunessan has many quality climbs up to E4, the biggest crag faces north. On the north west coast of Mull there are shorter but sunnier crags with numerous routes.
Photo is Steve on Collie Dug HS.
GABBRO
The gabbro crags are located in the hilly areas and give a number of easy climbs up to E1. Most rely on friction, but the friction is legendary!
Photo is Michael on Harry Potter Stole my Insulating Tape S.
GNEISS
Gneiss makes up most of Iona, there are a number of different crags. The rock often has colourful banding with vertical or horizontal breaks. Raven’s Crag in the south west has many extremes including a couple of E6s. There are also lots of easier climbs in the south west and on east and west coasts.
Photo is Michael on Allah be Praised E3.
GRANITE
South west Mull is a granite area with many small crags. Climbs on flakes, cracks and dark blobs! The tidal Isle of Erraid, off Mull, is fairly popular with climbers but there are many other crags. Rusty Tractor is one of several short crags south of Fionnphort, it has a handful of pleasant low grade climbs. Kintra north west of Fionnphort has some harder stuff up to 30m E5.
Photo is Andy on Boxed E4 (FA).
LIMESTONE
There are a few climbs on flakes and pockets on west Mull, this rock is overlying the breccia. Some routes are bolted others are trad. Routes from F6a to F6b and VS to E5, unfortunately many are slow to dry.
Photo is Michael on La Paroi Noire F6b.
SANDSTONE
There is a little sandstone on the south coast, it is soft so no routes have been recorded yet.
SCHIST
This is an area of schist on the south of Mull. The climbs usually use flakes and cracks. There are a number of crags. One crag ‘The Slab’ has climbs from HS to E4; opposite is the slightly overhanging ‘Horse Wall’ with routes from E3 to E7.
Photo is Davie on Tystie E4.
QUARTZ
A dozen routes have been recorded on the south coast of Mull. Slabby routes with angular holds, M to E1.
Monday, 28 April 2014