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My Blog
Bregaglia again
The Doc had advised me not to climb because of a break in my wrist, so I decided to go walking in Bregaglia, Switzerland.
This was my second visit to Val Bregaglia, the first was 35 years ago.
In 1980 the first route I did was the north ridge of Piz Badile with Stephen Kennedy. The guidebook was encouraging.
This superb climb is essential in any repertoire of Alpine Classics giving 1,000m. of climbing.
We got to the top then dropped down to a hut in Italy. We gave the hut guardian our pasta and dried sauce, he made the sauce into soup and gave us his sauce with the pasta so we had a two course meal!
The next day several parties went to traverse Torelli to Sant’Anna but we all stopped when the thunder started. After the others descended we continued and had the ridge to ourselves.
One of the finest ridges of its class in Bregaglia.
We didn’t get any views as we were in cloud but the climbing was enjoyable. The ridge stopped abruptly so we did a series of committing abseils down unpleasant vertical ground with bulges, always looking out for the next tape anchors.
Photo below, Badile with Sant’Anna ridge on the right.
I then did other routes with a variety of partners.
Last route of the trip was Fuori with Laurie Skuodas. It is a stunning line up a ridge with a steep face to the left and a slightly overhanging face of about 1,500 feet to the right.
A very classic climb, one of the best in the Bregaglia area.
Laurie agreed to do the route if I led the aid pitches, our guidebook gave it A2 another book had it as A3.
The continuously difficult pitches have now been pegged, the permanency of this equipment is doubtful.
Fortunately everything was in place.
Photo below is Laurie on an earlier route Pioda.
Waist belay, we didn’t have cams but had a moac. He climbed in big boots, I carried mine.
photos are here Lombardy and here CH
Tuesday, 10 November 2015