Ardtun probably has the best concentration of HVS to E2 cracks in Argyll. The cliffs tend to be very windy, when the wind drops the midges can be bad. Several sections of the dolerite sill have been climbed on and many routes dry quickly. The eastern crags (the highest) offer the best concentration of quality climbing on Mull from HVS to E3. Vegetation is not a problem and the routes did not require gardening. Some routes might be lichenous until they their first ascent of the year, these are given one * at most (although some of these are *** routes). Routes described left to right, often crack climbing a few routes climb the pillars on face holds.

ACCESS

Arriving in Bunessan from the east, follow the road down the hill then turn right, go over the bridge then left round the coast for just over a kilometre.  Turn down to the left and park near a left bend before the last two houses. 

For Creag Eilean An Duilisg ; from the parking spot, head north east , gain and cross the fence, and continue keeping just left (north) of the craggy hill (Torr Mor 383243), continue down a ridge right of the flat boggy area to reach the stoney beach east of the crag, 20 minutes from the road.

To get to the top of The Blow Hole and The Yellow Block walk the same way, but head north at Torr Mor. The Yellow Block is below some willow bushes that can be seen on the approach, about 20 minutes from the road.

To get to The Green Hill from the road, head north west to skirt past the east side of the cairned mound (Dunan Mor 375242), then continue north past a boulder then north east to reach a small grassy hill (the only grassy hill). The cliff is directly below, about15 minutes from the road.

Linking the crags along the cliff tops is straight forward, along the cliff base is hard work.

CREAG EILEAN AN DUILISG

(NM 386 246)   Alt 10m   North facing  

ARDTUN EAST

Scramble round to the east or abseil in, belays are stakes or bushes.

This is generally 20m high, although most routes follow cracks the climbing is very varied with a lot more interest than just jamming. Care is needed with a couple of the finishes.

Calluna Cornice   12m   VS 5a(1996)

Well left of Nest Trundling climb a juggy arete! Runners are in the shallow corner on the right, move right across the corner for the last section.

Blazing Windows   15m   E2 5c *(1999)

Twin cracks which look straightforward.

Gong Bird  15m   E2 6a *(1998)

The finger crack left of Eye Of Toad, step left at the top onto heather then an easy finish.

Eye Of Toad   15m   E2 5b **(1996)

Round left of Nest Trundling are twin cracks. Climb the left hand crack with a little help from the right crack high up, finish left of the nose.

Nest Trundling   15m   HVS 5a *(1996)

Obvious recessed twin cracks at the left side of the crag.

Collie Dolphins   15m   HVS 5a *(1996)

The jam crack to the right, step left at the top to avoid the grass. Belay as for Goldeneye.

Playing The Accordian   15m   E2 5c *(1999)

The crack, the climbing is not obvious and it needs a clean.

Screech-Owl   15m   HVS 5a *(1996)

A jam crack takes a while to dry. Belay as for Goldeneye.

Goldeneye   15m   VS 4c *(1996)

A jam crack with a block at the base has similar seepage to the previous route. A belay stake is 8m back.

Bloody Louse-Bird   15m   E1 5b *(1996)

The corner crack right of Goldeneye runs up left of a nose high up, a finger crack just right is also used. Good climbing but needs a clean, belay as for Goldeneye.

Duck Of Death   16m   E2 5c *(1997)

The crack running up past the right side of the nose high up, good climbing but needs a clean.

Declining Moral Standards   16m   E2 5b **(1997)

Good climbing up twin cracks left of Teb.

TEB   18m   E2 5b **(1996)

Twin cracks just left of Poorwill. Find the easiest way going from one crack to the other easy for the grade.

Poorwill   18m   HVS 5a **(1995)

At the left side of the crag is an overhang 5 metres up. Climb twin cracks right of the overhang.

Crispi   20m   E1 5a **(1997)

Climb the recessed crack to the overhang, move out left to the rib, step right and climb the crack in the arete.

Duck Xing   20m   E1 5a/b(1995)

Climb the crack right of the Crispi recess. Alright, but other routes near by are better.

Kea   20m   HVS 5a *(1995)

Right of Duck Xing is a single crack which gives the route, start up a large flake.

Gobhar-athair   20m   HVS 5a **(1995)

Twin cracks lead to an awkward bulge, then a short wall. Possibly E1.

Hirondelle   20m   E1 5b ***(1995)

At the dry stane dyke (not obvious), climb the steep finger crack directly.  An excellent sustained route.

Geadh-glas   20m   E1 5b **(1995)

Follow twin cracks till they merge and bend right, slabby to the top.

Nutcracker   20m   E1 5b **(1995)

The finger crack just left of Nightjar, pleasant awkward moves then an easier finish.

Nightjar   18m   VS 4c **(1995)

The cliff base is higher below a left facing corner crack. This good route climbs the corner.

Chicken Of Depression   20m   E1 5a **(1995)

Gain a platform, follow wide cracks then pull left and climb the crack over a couple of bulges, good climbing.

Chickens In The Mist   20m   E1 5a **(1995)

Climb the bulge to a ledge, there are twin cracks above, continue using the wider left hand crack with help from the right hand crack. Pull right and take the right slanting crack above. A finish is made easily past some loose holds.

Jonathan Livingston Dodo   20m   E1 5a(1995)

A classic. Start left of the 5m pillar. Climb twin cracks to a short chimney (without using the chockstone). Climb the chimney, move out left and carefully continue past loose rock to the top.

Parakeet Of The Baskervilles   20m   E1 5b(1998)

Right of the 5m pillar are short fallen pillars, start on top of these. Climb the corner crack which bends right and avoids a vertical wall. Move right again and climb past some loose blocks.

Chouca   15m   HVS 5a(1996)

Climb the corner right of these which bends right, 'fresh' holds left of the corner are used for the first section.

Left to right. Chickens in the Mist, Little Red Rooster, Spug Korma

WATERFALL WALL

Alt 10m   North facing

Some brilliant steep routes, scramble down to the east of the cliffs as for the previous crag or abseil in.

Russian Bustards   20m   HVS 5a(2002)

Left of the block of Roadrunner, Climb the crack in the arete and continue up the rib.

Roadrunner   20m   E3 5c *(1998)

Gain the top of the block left of Sheryl Crow. Above is a blank corner, climb the crack right of it which soon gets thin. Move left for protection, step back right, climb up then step left above the gear (it might be best for short folk to continue straight up from the first gear). Continue up the fault line slightly leftwards, where the angle eases (at a right facing corner crack) step right and climb easily to the top. Good climbing but needs a clean. 

Sheryl Crow   20m   E3 5c **(1997)

Excellent climbing up the curving groove at the left end of the overhangs. Start up the crack in the arete left of the groove, after a few moves step right and continue up the groove till level with the first block overhang. Move left across the bulging wall then continue up easier ground to the top.

Jimmy Heron   20m   E3 5c **(2005)

Climb the finger crack then step up right, finish up the overhung right facing corner.

Little Red Rooster   20m   E4 6a(1997)

Left of the waterfall are three shallow corner cracks. Climb the left hand one on awkward finger jams, then step right and climb a bulging corner crack. This is a brilliant *** route which is low in the grade, but it needs a clean.

Donald Duck   20m   E1 5b **(1996)

Left of the waterfall are three shallow corner cracks. Climb the middle one using flake holds, step right and finish up a crack. Good sustained interest, Belay stake 10m back.

Take Me To The River   20m   E2 5c(1996)

The line of the waterfall has twin cracks and dries up some years. Climb the right hand crack to the overhang, move to the left crack then continue using both. Awkward bulges then a short wall lead to the top. Fine climbing but mossy, belay as for Donald Duck.

Feathers McGraw   20m   E2 5b ***(1996)

Right of the waterfall is an overhang, start below this, good varied climbing. Climb up then hand traverse right to a jam crack which leads to the top of a pillar. Step left, climb a finger crack then finish up a shallow chimney. Belay as for Donald Duck.

Punk Flamingoes   20m   E2 5b **(1997)

Another fine varied route. Climb twin cracks up the right side of the short pillar. Follow the right crack which continues over a bulge, then more easily to the top.

Snorting Quack   20m   E4 6a ***(1997)

The pillar left of Doo Stew gives a superb route, the lower section is protected by R.P.s. The bulge up high was climbed on the left, climbing it on the right would be slightly harder, taken direct harder still but the grade would not change.

Doo Stew   20m   E1 5b **(1995)

Further right climb twin cracks, the left one is a hand crack, the right crack is very thin. Climb a bulge and continue to the top, good climbing fairly hard for the grade. A belay stake is 12m back.

Spug Korma   20m   E1 5b ***(1995)

Right of Doo Stew is a left facing corner corner crack which gives excellent climbing. Climb the corner step right and continue easily to the top. Belay at stake.

Stukie Pate   20m   HVS 5a *(1995)

Right again climb a crack, step right to a platform then bridge up the wide crack. Belay at stake.

Scrambled Sea Eagle Egg   18m   HVS 5a(1996)

Right of Stukie Pate is a shallow chimney, climb this using the crack on the right. Near the top pull out left then step up to the platform. Step right and climb the shallow corner, belay at stake.

The Pelican Brief   16m   E1 5b(1997)

Right of Scrambled is a grassy bay half way up the cliff, this route climbs the arete left of it. Climb a corner crack below the arete till it finishes and step left. Pull out right to the right side of the arete, step up then finish up a crack in the arete. The crux is at the start, best to move left to big holds then back right.

THE NUCLEAR CLIFF

Alt 10m   North facing

Gained from the base of Waterfall Wall or abseil in.

The climbing is an anti climax after Waterfall Wall and Ardtun East, routes can be lichenous.

Radioactive Rose   15m   HVS 5a(1999)

Right are several grassy grooves, beyond them is a left facing corner with a 4m high grass topped pillar 3m left. Climb the corner which is about 10m left of Atomkraft.

Atomkraft Nein Danke   15m   E1 5b(1999)

The obvious wide crack, in a right facing corner. Gain a grassy ledge then climb the crack, runners included a friend 6 and an RP3.

Dangleberry Half-Life   15m   E1 5b(2000)

Right of Atomkraft are some hairline cracks, this route takes a wider finger crack to the right again.

Hot Stuff   15m   HVS 5a(2000)

The next crack to the right.

Hot Spots   15m   HVS 5a(2001)

The crack to the right.

Irradiated Slaters   15m   E1 5b *(1999)

15m right of Atomkraft is a corner. Start up a short crack to the left, then pull left into the main crack which is followed to the top.

YELLOW BLOCK

(NM 383 248)   Alt 20m   North-North-West facing

This is a crag just east of the Blow Hole with some very good routes, there is a willow bush at the top of the cliff which is easily seen from the moor.

The easiest access is to abseil in.

Run Run Rudolph   10m   VS 4c(2002)

At the left side of the crag are two 2m high blocks. Climb the crack left of these.

Heat   10m   VS 4b *(2001)

Right of the right hand block are two cracks, climb the left hand one, a bit dirty.

Drizzle   10m   VS 4b *(2001)

Climb the right hand crack, there is a sharp rib just right.

Midge Shirt   10m   HVS 5a *(2000)

The west facing corner crack right of the sharp rib is wide and awkward.

The Edge Of Madness   11m   HVS 5a *(2000)

The crack to the right, left of three boulders, there is a small battered rowan at the top.

Caterpillar   12m   VS 4c(2002)

The corner crack, right of the three boulders.

That’s Horrible   12m   HVS 5a *(2005)

The crack right of Caterpillar.

Soaking Staffa   12m   HVS 5a *(2005)

Start to the right and climb the left side of the short pinnacle then the crack above with a bulge near the top.

Rally Carnage   12m   E2 5c **(2005)

Climb the crack on the right side of the short pinnacle to gain the top. Step right and climb the awkward finger crack, go over a bulge and finish at a chockstone. Easy for the grade.

On Width   12m   HVS 5a **(2001)

The left facing corner crack left of the offwidths. A good and obvious line.

Everything He Hates About Climbing   12m   E1 5a(1997)

At the right side of the crag are two offwidths, climb the less obvious left hand crack which widens with height.

Gone Again   12m   E2 5b ***(2003)

The fine off width crack, one of the most obvious lines on the crag.

The Steepening   12m   VS 4c ***(1997)

A great climb up the twin cracks in the corner right of the wide cracks.

Back From China   10m   HVS 5a *(2003)

Move up 4m to the overhang and follow the crack on the right side.

White Heather Club   10m   HVS 5a **(2001)

The crack to the right of Back From China.

Jessie Peeps   10m   HVS 5a *(2001)

The second crack to the right of White heather Club, up a corner.

Left to right Gone Again, White Heather Club.

THE BLOW HOLE

(NM 383 247)   Alt 20m   North-North-West facing

This was the first cliff at Ardtun to be climbed on, it is just west of the Yellow Block. The climbs are on quick drying immaculate rock, a few routes have ferns growing on them but these are easily pruned on the lead.

Abseil in or walk down the Pass of the Stirk to the west.

Twin Cracks   9m   Severe(1997)

Twin cracks left of Ascent Route.

Bruising   8m   VS 4c(2005)

The Arete.

Lobbin Bricks   7m   Severe(2005)

Corner crack.

Rose Street Riots   7m   Severe(2005)

Twin cracks.

Anarchist Protesters   7m   VS 4b *(2005)

The rib.

Ascent Route   8m   Severe(1994)

At the left end is a large chockstone; climb over this.

Kinetic   9m   VS 4b *(2005)

The crack line left of Kiribati.

Kiribati   10m   HVS 5a *(2000)

The crack left of Walkabout has an awkward bulge. Climbed on first of January. Kiribati was the first place to see the sun rise in the new millennium.

Walkabout   12m   VS 5a **(1995)

Just left of Four Legged Friend, in front of a small rowan tree. Climb past ferns then follow twin cracks, the right hand crack is wide and unhelpful.

Four Legged Friend   12m   HVS 5a/b **(1995)

The corner crack 4m left of Oot Ma Rays, just right of the small rowan tree.  There are a couple of loose flakes in the crack but they don't want to come out.

Bunty's Ducks   12m   E2 5b **(1997)

An awkward finger crack just right.

White Stuff   12m   E1 5b *(2005)

Another awkward finger crack,  go slightly left at the top bulge.

Oot Ma Rays   13m   VS 4c **(1994)

There are some large boulders at the cliff base.  Climb the shallow corner crack above them with interest, there is a bulge near the top.

Hundred   13m   VS 4b(2001)

Possibly the hundredth route put up at Ardtun. Just right of Ott Ma Rays climb the right slanting crack.

Unoriginal Route   13m   E1 5a **(1994)

The wide corner crack 4m right of Oot Ma Rays.

Two Curlews In A Bog   13m   HVS 4c *

Round to the right climb a deep wide crack. Small wires might be useful for the cracks beside the main crack.

Runner Bean   14m   HVS 5a **(1994)

The wide crack, past the right side of an overhang at 4m leads to a pull over a bulge, at the tallest part of this section of cliff.

Two Peas In A Pod   14m   VS 4b **(1994)

Enter the chimney behind Runner Bean, move up it, then wriggle out over a chockstone to finish as for Runner Bean, fortunately the graffiti is hidden from view.  If the chockstone disappears then the climb might be a lot harder.

Slept In A Bog   14m   HVS 5a **(1994)

Climb the crack just right over two bulges, hard for the grade.

Tarmac Frogs   14m   HVS 5a *(1997)

The hand crack between Slept In A Bog and the easy corner.

Mud in Your Eye   12m   VS 4c(2002)

Climb the right side of the pinnacle then follow twin cracks up the easy corner.

The Battle   12m   HVS 5a *(2006)

Climb the crack straight up from the pinnacle.

Juracell   12m   HVS 5a **

Start beside a grassy crack at the right side of a pillar, 7m right of Slept In A Bog.  Move up left and climb the cracked arete.  High in the grade.

Mental Block   11m   VS 4c **

Climb the north side of the 4 metre pinnacle 5m right of Juracell, then step onto the face and climb the crack.

Rock Around The Block   11m   HVS 5a **

Start just right of the pinnacle and climb the crack

Wide Corner   10m   Severe

A wide corner crack 11m right is climbed past some hollow blocks.

The Blocks   10m   Very Difficult

A choice of routes over some blocks.

Gannet   10m   Hard Severe *

Twin cracks just right.

Puffball   10m   VS 4c *

An offwidth crack formed by the left side of a pillar, 4m right.

Straight Jacket   10m   Severe *

A narrow climb behind Puffball, starting at right hand side of the pillar.

STIRK CRAG

(NM 380 248)   Alt 20m   North and East facing

The crag is about 60 east of the fence, the east face is a good landmark.

Go down the easy gully to the east (Pass of the Stirk) or abseil in.

Gribun Phone Box Vandals   10m   VS 4b(2004)

Twin cracks on the east face.

O.J. Killer   12m   HVS 5a *(2004)

Right of Gribun Phone Box Vandals are two cracks above a big block. Climb the left hand crack.

THE GREEN HILL

(NM 376 248)   Alt 20m   North-North-West facing

Some of these routes are a bit lichenous so have lost some of the original stars, but the jamming is positive, some routes get the evening sun and the surrounding rock scenery if very fine.  There are some natural belays at the top of routes (not back from the tops). There are a few belay stakes that are not easy to spot so it is worth checking out belays before you lead a route.

An easy gully just to the east gives access or abseil in.  Below the sill is steep grass, below this is basalt which falls into the sea.

Spider and I   7m   Severe(2002)

Cracks round to the left.

Thrashing About   8m   VS 4c*(2000)

The second crack left of No Jacket.

No Pyjamas Required   8m   VS 4c *(2000)

The crack left of Jacket Required.

Jacket Required   8m   Severe(1994)

A crack in a right facing corner, there is a block 2m up just right of the start of the route.

Splash   11m   VS 4c *(1994)

Just right is a pillar. Climb twin cracks on the right side of the pillar to a ledge on the left, then continue to the top.

Free The Torosay Five   10m   E1 5b(1998)

Twin cracks right of Splash.

Pushing Up The Camelot   10m   VS 4c *(1994)

Further right is a grassy pillar climb twin cracks 4m left of it. The left one is wider.

Peace   12m   E1 5b *(1997)

The crack left of Pancakes At Iochdar.

Pancakes At Iochdar   12m   VS 4c **

Recessed twin cracks.

Get In Quick   12m   E1 5b(1999)

The wide crack in the left facing corner, awkward jamming.

Chocks Away   12m   VS 4c(1997)

Well left of Kinloch Bound is a pillar half the height of the crag. Start four metres right of it and climb twin cracks.

Wide And Midgie   12m   HVS 5a *(1997)

The wide crack left of Kinloch Bound has a flake around half height.

Kinloch Bound   12m   Severe

Twin cracks just left (6m left of Rally Fever).

Another For Hector   12m   VS 4c *(1994)

Twin cracks left of Rally Fever.

Splatter   12m   E1 5b *(1997)

The crack.

Rally Fever   12m   HVS 5a *(1994)

Just left of Windjammer, start past grassy ledge and bulge, then climb twin Cracks.

Windjammer   13m   HVS 5a *(1994)

The corner crack just left of Sons....

Sons Of The Hounds Come Here And Get Flesh   13m   HVS 5a *

A corner crack, above a flake embedded in the turf.

Quest   14m   E1 5b *(1994)

Twin cracks; access is a bit scary.

Terminal   14m   E2 5b *(1995)

Twin cracks just right finishing on the left one.

PILE OF STONES west facing

These short clean routes catch the sun and dry quickly.

Continue west past Dunan Mor to reach a small cliff just north of some ruins, there is a path descent to the east of this crag. About 15 minutes from the road.

Left of the crag is a sloping gully and a wall to the left of it. The first three routes are on the more broken crag left of the gully at the left end.

Otters   VS 4c(2008)

Climb the clean crack towards the left side of the crag.

Done Twice   Hard Severe(2006)

Right of Otters are some cracks with clumps of heather. Right of these climb the left facing corner crack (right of a 2m high block).

Diving Doves   E1 5b **(2008)

Climb the fine finger crack right of the previous route.

MAIN CRAG

Nicely Awkward   6m   VS 4b(2008)

At the left end of the crag is a wide corner crack, climb the crack.

A   6m   VS 4b(2007)

The corner crack right of another wide crack.

B   6m   VS 4c(2006)

Another corner crack.

Limping Lamb   7m   HVS 5a *(2006)

The next line is a crack on a buttress.

Pleasant   7m   Hard Severe *(2006)

The right facing corner in a slight recess.

Unpleasant   7m   Hard Severe(2007)

The left facing wide crack in a slight recess is a bit green.

One to come back for   8m   HVS 5a *(2008)

The fine right facing corner crack.

Stand Clear   8m   HVS 5a *(2008)

The crack to the right.

Bramble Crack   7m   VS 4b(2008)

The wide right facing crack.

Blame the Bracken 7m  Severe *(2008)

Climb the twin cracks in the recess.

Finger Crack   8m   HVS 5a *(2008)

The awkward crack.

Showers   8m   VS 4c *(2008)

A crack in a left facing corner.

Stacked Block Route   8m   Severe(2008)

Gently climb over the blocks then continue up.

Stacked Block Crack   8m   Severe(2006)

Climb a left facing crack above the right side of a block.

Clear   8m   VS 4c *(2006)

Climb the crack to the right of the blocks.

Out of Sight   8m   VS(2006)

The wide crack tucked in on the right.

The Block   7m   Severe(2006)

To the right is a detached block this is climbed following a crack over an overhang.

SHEILING CRAG

Altitude 10m west facing

About 200m north of the crag at Dunan Mor is another crag, one route has been climbed. Another crag north again has been developed.

Curving Crack VS 4c 8m(2009)

Climb the left facing corner using the crack on the right wall of the corner. Mantle up and right then climb the short wall to finish.

DUNAN MOR

(NM 374 243)   Alt 10m   West facing

This is the Ardtun cliff nearest the road. Walk to Dunan Mor then head north west towards the light house (or walk along the shore from the houses to avoid the bogs). About ten minutes from the road, or follow the shore, which is longer but drier.

8m VS 4c (2009)

The left hand twin cracks round left of Like a Blanket.

8m VS 4c (2009)

The right hand twin cracks.

Like a Blanket on a Man 10m E1 5b *(2009)

At the left side of the bay is a crack right of a large ivy. Climb the crack with a bulge low down to an awkward exit going left or right.

Flotsam and Jetsam 10m HVS 5a * (2009)

Climb the finger crack to the right.

High Tide and Green Grass 10m HVS 5a * (2009)

Climb twin cracks mostly using the wider right hand crack.

Pathetic 8m VS 4b2006

A poor route up cracks in a corner on the left side of the recess to the left. Move up to grass ledge then climb the twin cracks.

10m E1 5b * (2009)

The second crack left of The Gannet in the Gansey is climbed on awkward jams.

Angus the Bull 10m HVS 5a ** (2009)

The crack left of The Gannet in the Gansey gives interesting climbing.

The Gannet In The Gansey   10m   E4 5c **(1996)

Left of the other routes is a ruined sheiling, 12m left of it is a prominent clean arete, climb the arete. A fine looking route, placing runners in the crack on the right would be an obvious temptation.

Ant Dancing 9m E1 5b * (2009)

The thin crack right of Gannet in the Gansey is worthwhile.

10m HVS 5a (2009)

Climb the crack to the right.

Wait till 7.30 9m Severe * (2009)

The third crack right of Gannet in the Gansey.

The last three routes are a short walk to the south.

Jacob's Creep   10m   HVS 5a *(1996)

The arete left of Fly-Past. Keep right of the small overhang then step left and climb the arete.

Fly-Past   10m   VS 4c(1996)

The obvious crack past left side of roof.

Domino   10m   HVS 5a *(1996)

Start 1m right of the dry-stane dyke. Start up crack, move left above bulge to gain and climb crack coming from roof.