CALGARY

(NM 356 495)

This is a much needed addition for Mull which does not have many developed crags on the northern half of the island. This is a coastal dolerite crag south west of Calgary.

There are about sixty routes here on about five walls, routes on two of the walls are below.

Approach: From the east. Park 1.5 miles west of the toilets at Calgary where the electricity pylons go over the hill there is a section of downhill then a straight with a passing place on the right.

From the south west. Park at a passing place on the left 0.4 miles after the Treshnish Point turn off. This is on a straight after a section of downhill, just before a road side dry stane dyke.

The cliff can be seen from the road with Treshnish Point behind. Walk west along the road for a hundred metres or so, go down through a gate then head north west to the coast. The routes are west of a long tidal gully which cuts inland. Allow 5 minutes. Many short routes have been climbed in the tidal gully.

Abseil in, or climb down one of the easy routes.

ARCH WALL

Partly-tidal   Southwest facing

This is a quick drying cliff, the arch is at the left end. A softer rock at the base has resulted in a few undercut starts.

1 Rescue Me   length   E1 5a *(2002)

Start about 4m left of Arch Rib. Move up on large steps to a short right facing corner/groove then step up left onto a vague rib below the bulge. Make a thin move up right and follow the handrail out right to finish up the rib, poorly protected.

2 Arch Rib   12m   VS 4c **(2002)

The rib left of the arch, a start was made at a corner two metres to the left of the rib. After the undercut start step right to gain the first hold. Continue straight up the rib, there is no gear till mid height.

3 See Through Corner   12m   VS 4c *(2002)

At the arch is a right facing corner crack, take the right hand finish.

4 Damp Waste Coat   12m   VS 4c *(2002)

To the right is a short, shallow corner with an undercut start. Climb it then pull out right at the bulge and continue up a blind crack in the slab.

5 Shallow Water Solo   12m   Severe **(2001)

Start about 3m right of the arch, climb the thin snaking crack in the left facing corner on the left side of the tower.

6 No Orange   12m   HVS 4c *(2004)

The tower has two aretes, climb the easier right hand arete, protection could be better.

7 Going Left   12m   HVS 5a *(2002)

The left of two diverging corners right of the tower. Start just right of the crack, move up into the crack then left up a slab. Climb the corner with a move left to avoid the bulge.

8 Going Right   12m   E1 5b **(2002)

The right diverging corner with an overhang around half height.

9 Bulge Groove   10m   Severe **(2001)

There are two grooves in the next buttress. Climb the left hand groove over a bulge low down. Good climbing but protection is difficult to find.

10 Red Mite   10m   VS 4c *(2001)

The right hand groove also has a bulge. Start just to the right and pull out left to gain the groove.

11 Left Wall   10m   HVS 4c(2001)

The left wall of the corner gives nice climbing. The rock is steep and a little suspect, protection is difficult to find.

12 Pathetic Trundle   10m   Severe *(2001)

Climb the open corner.

13 Go For It   12m   VS 4b *(2001)

The open groove in the left side of the next rib. There is a bold bulge to start, protect it with gear in the crack down to the left.

14 I.M.K.   10m   VS 4b *(2001)

Start 5m right of the last route, move left off the huge boulder. Climb up the arete, continue up the open groove and bulge.

15 Cossack Route   10m   SevereDate

Start up I.M.K. then move right to the scoop, up this slightly left near the top.

16 Route 1   10m   Difficult(2001)

Open crack / recess, start 1m right of the huge boulder.

17 Central Scoop   10m   Moderate(2001)

Climb the easy looking corner/scoop going slightly left.

18 Slanting Slab   12m   Severe *(2001)

A right slanting line with a bulge at mid height, start just right of mod.

19 We Are The Campions   12m   Severe(2002)

This route goes right, under Slanting Slab. Start up the right facing corner then traverse right then up.

20 Mink Bypass   10m   Very Difficult(2004)

Start just left of Mink Way Direct at a shallow left trending corner. Follow the corner, move left slightly and go over a bulge.

21 Mink Way Direct   10m   Difficult

Start up steep groove and continue up the deep crack in the right facing corner.

22 Flying V   10m   VS 4b(2004)

Start just right and climb a short steep wall, finish at the V at the top.

23 Wet One   10m   Very Difficult

Start in a slight recess and finish up a steep crack, a bit slow to dry.

24 Bulging   10m   VS 4b(2004)

Climb the wall just left of the next route. Finish up the short bulging wall above.

25 Wee Rib   10m   Severe

The rib 3m left of Gardyloo Gully, easily up right above.

Gardyloo Gully   10m   VS 4c(2004)

Climb the right facing corner/gully between the two cliffs, slow to dry and a bit loose.

BROWN WALL

Non-tidal   North-West facing

A brown streaked wall, wet in winter.

1 Little Brown Jug   10m   VS 4c **(2001)

Right of the gully the wall has an overhang a little below half height. Start below and left of this. Pull up onto a projecting block, about head height. Climb the crackline slightly rightwards past the left side of the overhang. A good wee thuggie route.

2 Floating along   10m   E2 5b *(2005)

The gently curving crack in the dark wall.

3 Black and Brown   10m   VS 4c *(2003)

The left slanting recess/corner has a black left wall and a brown right wall, move left near the top.

4 Cold And Steep   10m   HVS 4c(2002)

Start 2m right and climb over flake bulges.

5 Steep and Windy   10m   E1 5a *(2005)

Climb the wall.

6 Shorty   10m   VS *

Climb a right slanting corner crack to a ledge, go up the shallow corner above.

7 Brown Slab   10m   Very Difficult *(2001)

Just left of Brown Corner, find the easiest line.

8 Brown Corner   10m   Difficult(2001)

The left slanting easy angled corner.

9 Via Neeza   10m   VS 4c *(2002)

From the base of Brown Corner start on a right slanting crack, then leave it and climb straight up the crack.

10 Water Pistol   12m   VS 4c(2003)

Start up Via Neeza and climb the right slanting crack.

Unclimbed

The corner crack with a very steep start.

11 Shoulder Wrencher   14m   E1 5b *(2003)

Climb up to the recessed corner. Swing left onto the rib or climb it direct, continue more easily.

12 Scone Maker 14m Severe **(2001)

Climb the rib to gain the left end of the shelf then climb up the shallow corner crack.

13 Pipit Crack   14m   HVS 5a *(2005)

Start at the pool and climb a steep crack to gain left side of the shelf, continue up the cracked wall.

14 Hermaphrodite   14m   VS 4b**(2002)

Start at the pool and climb a steep crack to gain the right side of the shelf.

Follow the shallow corner crack up slightly  right wards.

15 Flying Argo   14m   VS 4b *(2002)

Start on the boulder and step over the pool. Climb the crack then continue slightly right up the rib.

Arch Wall

Brown Wall