Photo above, Rum from Wave Crag

Below are about half of the routes on Canna, please get in touch if I’ve got stuff wrong.

Canna is an idyllic island, the most westerly of the Small Isles. For more information see www.road-to-the-isles.org.uk/ It was the last to receive the attentions of rock climbers but now provides the highest concentration of easily accessible climbing on this group of islands. Routes often follow well protected cracks and most crags are south facing.

There are some fine short lower grade routes on Lower House Crag, Bunkhouse Crag and Wave Crag and some impressive harder challenges on Upper House Crag and The Fortress. Protection is often excellent. Canna and neighbouring Sanday consist of low lying platforms of Basalt which gives rise to the many crags that cover the islands. Developments so far have predominantly centred on the south facing crags that lie above the harbour to Tarbet road. Belay stakes are in place above all the crags. The crags are described east to west starting from the harbour.     

Access

There is a Cal Mac ferry (which sometimes leaves ahead of schedule!) from Mallaig. There might be a carriage charge for luggage that you do not carry on board. Tel 01687 462403 www.calmac.co.uk

Although the distances on the island are relatively small a bicycle would be handy.

Accommodation

Self-catering accommodation is plentiful ranging from cheap and cheerful at Kate’s Cottage (The Bunkhouse) to grand and expensive at Tigard. All have to be booked via the National Trust for Scotland, 5 Charlotte Square, Edinburgh, EH2 4OU www.nts.org.uk 0131243 9331 NTS also have offices in Inverness which might take bookings in the future.

Camping: Camping near the church, 5 minutes from the pier, is handy for the toilet at the pier, and the waiting room to escape the midges. There is a shower and toilet at the farm (a few minutes walk past the tearoom).

Amenities

The Restaurant is west of the pier, beyond the camping mentioned above, www.cannarestaurant.com Tel 01687 460164.

HOUSE CRAGS 

There are two outcrops on the South side of Cnoc Bhrostan above the trees and easily seen from the pier. Lower House Crag in particular has a wide range of routes suitable to the middle grade climber.

Approach: Walk along the road past the tearoom until just past the phone box. Take the track on the right, when the track goes towards the wood continue up the hill and cross a stile, the crags are just above. This is easy but perhaps not the fastest, 20 minutes from the pier.

LOWER HOUSE CRAG

NG 273 057 Alt 90m South facing

The central and left hand side of the crag are generally the cleanest with some fine cracks and corners. Routes are described from right to left.

Descent: Down either side

First Crack   7m   Severe(2000)

At the right hand end of the crag are corner cracks facing each other, climb the right hand crack.

Replica Corner   8m   VS 5a(2002)

2m to the left is another left facing corner crack.  Pull up on to a flake on the left wall. Climb the corner to the top.

Lib Dem   8m   Hard Severe(2005)

6m left is a thin crack in a faint rib. Climb up to reach a good ledge and runners at 3m. Pull up to another ledge and finish steeply on the left.

Some 6 metres further left, and about 10m right of a big tree growing out from the rock, is a crack in a blunt rib between two small roofs at 5m..

One for the Masses   8m   Hard Severe *(2005)

Climb the steep initial crack to where the angle eases. Continue up the rib and finish up a short groove.

Drunken Opposition   8m   HVS 5a(2005)

Start 2m left and climb a crack in a left facing groove to a small roof. Move up left around the roof and continue up the steep crack to the top.

Long Campaign   10m   VS 5a(2005)

Immediately left again, the next route takes twin cracks in slightly flared square groove. Climb the groove with holds mainly in the right hand crack and right arete.

Writing on the Wall   10m   HVS 5b **(2005)

12m left of the big tree growing from the rock is a large light coloured block at the foot of a V groove. 2m right of this is a curved crack with unusual honeycombed weathering features on its left wall. Climb the crack mainly using holds on the wall to either side.

V Groove   10m   HVS 5a(2005)

From the block climb a combination of the V groove and a crack in its right wall to about halfway then pull back left into the groove to finish.

The Whip   10m   E2 5c *(2005)

Just left of the large light coloured block is a prominent chimney with a square cut overhang at three-quarters height. Immediately left again is a thin vertical crack. Climb a short jam crack to a ledge on the left. The thin crack above is deceptively steep and awkward.

SS Cracks   10m   VS 4c(2005)

2m left again are two prominent S shaped cracks. Climb the cracks on good holds to a short steep final section.

13m further left the next obvious landmark at the base of the crag is a broken ledge with a small tree at 2m. The next route takes the short jam crack emanating from the right hand side of this ledge.

Bipartisan Jam   10m   HVS 5a(2005)

Go up a short rib to the right hand end of the grassy ledge. Stand on a flake at the bottom of the crack and climb steeply to a large ledge. Easily up left to finish.

PETE’S BUTTRESS

The buttress to the left of this ledge is Pete’s Buttress which provides some of the best and longest routes on the crag.

The Coalition   10m   VS 4c *(2005)

Just left of the broken ledge are twin cracks in a groove, climb the groove.

Royal Assent   12m   E1 5c **(2005)

4m left past a blank looking groove is a curving crack in the nose of the buttress. Climb the awkward crack with holds on the left wall and arete.

Black Rod   12m   E1 5c *(2005)

Takes the next crack on the left side of the nose of the buttress. Up the thin rounded crack with holds on the right arete until a pull back left can be made into the final wider section.

The Mace   12m   VS 5a(2005)

A metre left is a prominent left facing crack. Follow the chimney, which widens to an awkward finish.

Backbencher   10m   VS 4c(2005)

Just left again, this route takes a wide chimney crack in a V groove.

Casting Vote   10m   E1 5c(2005)

2m left is a thin crack in the face of the next buttress. Climb this to reach good holds on the right hand rib. A difficult move left gains the final part of the crack.

Postal Vote   8m   VS 5a(2005)

The last route on Pete’s Buttress is a short chimney crack in a left facing corner. Climb the widening crack past several chock stones to the top.

The back wall between Pete’s and Keith’s Buttresses contains a number of thin blind cracks and two very good and technically difficult undertakings.

Faint Heart   9m   E2 6a *(2005)

Good technical climbing up the crack line 2 m left of Postal Vote. Move up to gain a ledge on the right then difficult moves up the thin crack to finish.

Wild Thing   9m   E4 6b *(2005)

2m left again are two parallel thin curving cracks on the left side of the back wall. Start up the left hand crack on good widely spaced holds to half height. Continue with difficulty to the top.

KEITH’S BUTTRESS

The next buttress, Keith’s Buttress, is identifiable from its white speckled rock. The first route is the big right facing corner, which forms the left hand end of the back wall.

The Chamber   10m   VS 4c(2005)

Climb the corner cracks.

Taking the Mickey   10m   HVS 5a *(2005)

2m down to the left on the front face of the buttress is an obvious jam crack. Pull up to a ledge and enter the steep jamming crack, which widens awkwardly towards the top.

Equal Opportunities   12m   VS 4c *(2005)

On the front of Keith’s Buttress are twin converging cracks in a white speckled wall. Move up left into the cracks and climb these to finish up a short V groove.

Dinky   12m   VS 5a(2005)

Start 2m left at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb two cracks in a groove to reach the top of a large pillar on the left. Step back right to finish up the wide crack.

Upwardly Mobile   12m   HVS 5b(2005)

Just around to the left are two thin cracks leading to the top of the same pillar as the previous route. Steep moves up the cracks to gain the ledge on the pillar. Finish up the short groove.

Question Time   10m   VS 4c(2005)

1m up to the left is the last route on this buttress. Climb the left facing corner crack to the top.

First Among Equals   10m   HVS 5a **(2005)

2m left of the corner is a striking hand crack on the right hand side of an undercut pillar. Climb up over the initial bulge and continue up the crack above.

Frozen Fingers   10m   Hard Severe 4b(2005)

The left facing corner crack forming the other side of the pillar.

Blocky Groove   7m   Very Difficult(2005)

2m left is a broken buttress with a blocky groove on its left side. Pull up steeply and step up left into the groove. Continue easily to the top.

Pick Pocket   9m   E1 5c(2005)

2m left again is a thin intermittent crack. Follow the line of the crack with technical moves on rounded slots and pockets.

The Iron Lady   12m   HVS 5b **(2005)

3m left is a very striking wide crack forming the right hand side of a detached pillar. Follow the classic off- width crack, which gradually widens towards the top.

True Colours   12m   VS 4c *(2005)

The left side of the detached pillar forms an open V chimney. A very pleasant route with an awkward finish.

Political Divide   12m   HVS 5b(2005)

On the left wall of the V chimney is a wide flake crack. Climb the flake crack to a small overhang. Make a bold move across to the left and finish up the steep crack.

Berlin Wall   10m   HVS 5b *(2005)

2m around to the left are two vague converging cracks in a wall. Climb up past an obvious pocket to a hold on the right rib. Awkward balance moves follow to gain the rounded upper crack and the top.

Communist Crack   8m   Hard Severe 4b(2005)

A metre to the left is a wide broken crack. An awkward start leads to easier climbing.

Last Gasp   7m   VS 5a(2005)

Just left again is a short curving crack. Climb this and the rib on its left to reach better holds on the right.

This is the last described route although the crag continues and many short routes and problems can be found.

UPPER HOUSE CRAG

NG 273 059 Alt 140m South east facing

Climbs on the upper tier are generally longer, harder and more imposing than the lower tier. The central section in particular is very steep, it is clearly identified by a 5m high band of rotten rock that runs across its base which is easily avoided by traversing along an access ledge from either end. Climbs are described from left to right. . The left hand section of the crag is somewhat shorter and the routes more amenable. Climbs are described from left to right.

Descent: Down either side.

The left end of the crag is defined by a rounded buttress seemed with vertical cracks and with two short detached pillars at it’s base.

Let Them Eat Cake   8m   HVS 5b(2007) 

The leftmost crack line of the buttress, 2m left of the shorter left hand pillar. Easily up to a jammed flake then continue more awkwardly up the thin crack to the top.

Scarlet Pimpernel   9m   HVS 5a(2007)

The next crack line, a metre to the right and just left of the shorter pillar. Start on the right side of the crack then step across to holds on the left. An awkward move up leads to better finishing holds.

Quick off the Block   12m   VS 5a(2007)

Climb the chimney crack formed between the two detached pillars and step up onto the top of the right hand one. Continue up the thin crack above with holds on the left wall till a jamming crack can be reached. Up past a jammed block to finish.

Peerages for Sale   12m   Hard Severe(2007)

Start immediately right of the right hand pillar. Go easily up and step right to a grassy ledge at 4m. Climb the twin cracks and groove above to a steep finish.

Peapod   12m   VS 5a(2007)

Start 6m right of the right hand pillar below a prominent crack with a peapod shaped feature at half height. Climb a broken groove to a grassy ledge. Step left into the peapod crack and follow this with holds on the left to avoid a blank section and gain the wider finishing crack.

Curved Heir   12m   E1 5b(2007)

Takes the curved groove line immediately right of the previous route. Climb a broken groove to a grassy ledge (as for Peapod). Step up right to a blank looking groove and climb this with holds on its right rib ‘til a difficult move can be made back left to below an overhang. Pull up through the bulge via a steep crack on the right to reach the top.

The following 12m section of crag is effectively shortened by broken rocks and vegetated ledges in its lower part. The next route, 10m right of Curved Heir, takes a thin crack in a smooth looking groove emanating from the highest point of the vegetated ledges.

Bourgeoisie   14m   E2 5c(2007)

Start directly below the smooth crack/groove line. Scramble up over broken ledges, leftwards then back right, to gain the large grassy ledge at its base. Climb the crack with combinations of jamming, bridging and use of a downwards-pointing flake on the left wall.

Missing the Boat   20m   E2 5c *(2005)

Starts 2m right of Bourgeoisie, the crag regains its full height at an obvious curving crack. Pull up steeply leftwards over a bulge then move up right into the crack. Continue to where the crack curves right and blanks out. Move up steeply using the thin crack in the right wall and then both cracks to gain a groove and the top of a pillar on the left. Scramble to the top.

Blue Blood   25m   E3 6a *(2005)

Start 1m right of the left hand end of the rotten band of rock, just before it gives way to grass ledges. Scramble up the rotten band to a starting ledge below a yellow scarred scooped groove. Bridge up a few metres towards the scoop then go awkwardly leftwards to reach a good ledge. Step back right to gain the base of a steep crack line and follow this strenuously to a ledge. Continue steeply over bulges to a resting ledge. Finish up the twin cracks above.

Aristocrat   25m   E4 6a ***(2005)

Takes a prominent left leaning square groove in the upper part of the face. Start as for Blue Blood. Bridge up a few metres towards the yellow, scooped groove then go steeply up rightwards to a sloping ledge. Step up to a flake/spike above and move delicately around to the right to gain a slab at the base of the groove. Difficult moves to reach and start the crack system then follow the square groove to the top.

The Ruling Class   25m   E4 6a **(2005)

Takes a big left facing corner in the upper half of the crag. Start 6m right of Blue Blood near the middle of the rotten band. Scramble up rightwards (or traverse in) to a starting ledge at a groove leading up to overhangs at 8m. Climb the left wall of the groove, delicate and poorly protected, to the left side of the overhangs and the start of the big corner. Follow the corner crack with awkward moves past blank sections to reach the easier wider crack and the top.

Lord of the Isles   25m   E3 5c **(2006) 

Another very good route taking the crack and corner line immediately right of the previous climb. Start as for The Ruling Class and follow this to the left side of the overhangs at 8m. Step right and climb a steep jam crack through the overhang, then move across right to another crack. Go up onto the large flake and follow the corner crack, which becomes an awkward off-width towards the top.

Inheritance   20m   E1 5c(2006)  

A further 25m right, where the rotten band ends, is a left facing corner crack. Start just left of the line at a short black inset corner. Move up to an overhanging block at 3m and pull right on good holds to a ledge. Step right into the main corner and follow this to a steep exit onto a ledge on the right. Continue up a short wall to finish.

The Privileged Few   20m   E2 5c(2006)  

2m right of Inheritance is another innocuous crack line. Climb the crack onto a small pinnacle at 5m. Continue up the intermittent crack with surprisingly technical moves to reach a grassy ledge. Continue up the short wall above to the top.

Madame Guillotine   10m   HVS 4c **(2007)

2m to the right, the main part of the crag finishes at a prominent right facing corner containing twin cracks. Excellent bridging up the corner, mainly using the wider right hand crack, leads to an exit rightwards onto a large ledge.

BUNKHOUSE CRAG 

NG 267 055 Alt 60m south east facing

Approach: From the pier walk west past the tearoom to St. Columba’s Chapel. Go through the gate straight after the chapel and follow the dry stane dyke to the crag above the bunkhouse, less than 30 minutes from the pier. If there is a bull in the field a longer approach is needed, continue past the Chapel, the Farm and a house then round the field, the crag is above.

Descent: Go west and round to the base of the crag, cross the fence and continue along the cliff base. Or abseil.

This is a small friendly outcrop overlooking the harbour bay and conveniently situated 50m up the hillside from the bunkhouse.  The main climbing sections and the longest routes are to be found either side of an area of broken, ivy covered rock in the centre of the crag. Climbs are described first rightwards (Bunkhouse East) and then leftwards (Bunkhouse West) from the ivy patch.

BUNKHOUSE EAST

Jenga   18m   HVS 5a/b(2004)

Immediately right of the ivy patch is a collapsed pillar leaning against the face. Start at the base of this. Easily up over the blocky pillar to the foot of a steep inset square corner.  Climb the right hand crack to reach a large ledge on the right and so the top.

Free Enterprise   15m   HVS 5b(2004)

The next groove/crack line, 3m up and right of Jenga.  Pleasant climbing to where the cracks close then an awkward crux move to reach a large ledge on the left.  Finish as for Jenga.

Some 5 metres up and right from Jenga is a steep wall seamed with vertical cracks and guarded by a line of overhangs at 3m.  The wall ends in a rounded butress containing the classic corner/chimney line of  Exstatic.

Evil Twin   13m   E1 5b *(2004)

Takes twin cracks in the middle of the wall. Start below the right side of the line of overhangs. Pull over the overhang via twin cracks and follow these to the top. More awkward than it looks.

Convergence   15m   HVS 5a *(2004)

The rightmost crack of the wall, some 2m left of Exstatic. A suprisingly delicate climb which joins Exstatic at a ledge a few metres below the top.

Ex-static   15m   VS 4b **(2004)

Twenty metres right of the ivy patch the crag reaches its highest point at a rounded buttress. This excellent route takes the twin cracks in an inset square corner/chimney directly above the toe of the buttress.  Follow the cracks exiting leftwards via ledges.

Chicken Head   13m   VS 5a **(2004)

2 metres up to the right of Exstatic is a clean attractive looking crack line.  Follow the crack which gets progressively thinner and steeper to the top.

Hidden Crack   13m   VS 5a(2006)

A metre right again is another good crack line, before the wall finishes at a dirty black corner. Go easily up ledges to the crack proper. Follow the crack with holds on the left wall to a steep finish (crux).

Some 30m further right past a broken, vegetated section of cliff is a small bay containing a distinctive wall of jet black rock.

Gripper Clipper   10m   Hard Severe 4c(2004)

Climbs the undercut buttress immediately left of the black wall.  Pull over the overlap at a flake crack, step right and up the face of the butress to finish via large ledges.

Jet-stream   8m   E1 5b(2004)

The very thin water worn crack in the centre of the black wall.  Pull up steeply over a bulge to get established on the wall.  Delicate climbing follows up the thin crack/shallow depression to a steep finish. 

Fern Hill   6m   VS 5a(2006)

Just right of the black, water worn wall is a steep jam crack. Go easily up the crack to a bulge then continue steeply to reach a large ledge. Further ledges lead to the top.

Fernelise   6m   Very Difficult(2004)

Start 6m right of Jetstream on the right hand side of the bay. Follow a right facing stepped corner crack escaping leftwards at the top.

Scorpion   8m   HVS 5b(2006)

3m right of Fernelise is a crack chocked with ivy. Just right again are clean twin cracks in a slight groove. Climb the pleasant cracks to where the angle steepens. Continue with a couple of harder moves to reach the top.

Beeline   8m   VS 5a(2006)

Takes the jam crack just right of Scorpion. Climb the crack exiting right onto a ledge. Easily up ledges to the top.

Honeysuckle Cracks   8m   Severe *(2006)

2m right again on the nose of the buttress is a pair of attractive looking cracks. Climb the cracks to a large honeysuckle ledge on the right. Step back into the left hand crack and up to another ledge. Finish easily as for Beeline.

Zigzag   8m   VS 5a(2006)

Makes the best of the broken wall, 2m to the right of Honeysuckle Cracks. Easily up ledges rightwards, then step across left and up onto a large block. Go up a few metres then right onto a ledge below a steep crack. Awkward moves up this to finish.

Game of Two Halves   8m   VS 4c(2006)

Just right of Zigzag is a short corner leading to stepped, grassy ledges. Right again, and at a slightly higher level, is an attractive east facing wall containing several crack lines. Takes the first crack, a metre right of the short corner. Use the crack and left edge of the wall to reach the large ledge at half height. Up the twin cracks above.

Face Value   8m   HVS 5b *(2006)

Climbs the thin central crack line, 2m right of the last route. Tricky moves up the lower wall lead to a ledge at half height. Continue more easily to a grassy ledge on the left. Step up onto the rib on the right and so to the top.

When I’m Bigger   7m   VS 4c(2006)

To the right is a broken grassy section of crag. Just right again, at a slightly higher level, is a final bay of rock seamed with cracks and lying directly above the bunkhouse. The first line on the left hand side of the bay, takes steep parallel cracks in a slightly inset square corner. Follow the awkward cracks to ledges and easy ground.

Short Haul   7m   HVS 5b(2006)

The next line, 2m right of When I’m Bigger. Start steeply up twin cracks to where they merge. Continue up the awkward crack to the top.

Little Cracker   7m   VS 5a(2006)

1m right of the last route is a prominent jam crack leading to a large block at the top. Follow this and finish left of the block.

Wee Doris   7m   E1 5c(2006)

A further 1 m to the right is a very thin curving crack in a slight groove. Climb the crack with holds on the right arête and gain a shelf on the left.  Continue up with a committing reach left to a short jam crack and the top.

Birthday Girl   7m   E2 5c *(2006)

1m right of Wee Doris is a square chimney containing a very large hanging block (best left alone with the bunkhouse directly below!). Just right again is a thin crack in an elegant slim groove. Delicate and technical climbing up the slim groove to the top.

BUNKHOUSE WEST

A Bridge Too Far   15m   HVS 5a *(2004)

A few metres left of the ivy patch is an inset square corner with twin cracks.  Climb the corner, mainly by bridging and use of the wider right hand crack.  Perhaps E1.

Blank Expression   15m   E2 5c *(2004)

Takes the next but one crack to the left, some 5m left of A Bridge Too Far. Delicate and technical where the crack blanks out towards the top.

Bloody Crack   15m   E1 5b **(2004)

The innocuous looking offwidth crack on the other side of the buttress to Blank Expression.  The gradually widening crack is of sustained interest requiring a variety of techniques.

Ivy League   15m   E1 5b *(2005)

The next crack, 1m left of Bloody Crack. Start up twin cracks to reach a large platform on the left (top of short pillar). Step back right and climb the crack with increasing difficulty to a steep finish.

Not Fade Away   13m   E1 5b *(2005)

In the back wall, 4m left the last route, is a V groove containing a crack which disappears around half height. Climb the crack to where it ends. Continue up the groove with holds on the right and bridging to gain better holds and a steep finish.

Super-sub   13m   HVS 5b(2006)

Start 2m left of Not Fade Away. Climb twin cracks to where they merge at half height. Follow the right hand crack above to the top. Harder than it looks, but aren’t they all!   

Paradise Lost   15m   Hard Severe *(2005)

3m down to the left is a more broken buttress containing two distinct pillars. The tops of these provide large ledges at around half height. This route takes the crack line just right of the right hand pillar. Climb the face and cracks just right of the pillar and step up left onto its top. Step back right and finish up the steep layback crack.

Paradise Regained   15m   HVS 5a(2006)

Climb the chimney crack formed between the two pillars and move up onto the right hand top. Climb the deceptively awkward crack above.

Paradise Road   15m   Hard Severe *(2006)

Start below the square chimney on the left side of the two pillars. Climb the awkward chimney past a chock stone to gain the top of the left hand pillar. Step back left and climb the crack to reach easy ledges.

Some 15m further left beyond a broken, grassy section of cliff is a tall detached pillar with a perfect jam crack in its front face.

Doom Chimney   14m   VS 4c(2006)

Takes the prominent off width chimney crack forming the right hand side of the pillar. Scramble up grassy ledges to the foot of the chimney and follow it with increasing interest to the top (large friends useful).

Immaculate Crack   14m   HVS 5a ***(2005)

Climb the steep crack with strenuous moves past a bulge to enter the slightly wider upper section.

Super Crack   14m   HVS 5a **(2006)

A metre to the left is another fine jam crack. Follow the gradually widening crack to the top.

Ex-calibre   10m   HVS 5a *(2006)

The right hand crack has a small overhang at 4m.  Climb the pleasant crack past the overhang to a ledge on the left. Continue directly up the crack above with difficult finishing moves (or avoid this section on the left at HS).

Lancelot   10m   Hard Severe(2006) 

Climbs the jam crack in the middle of the wall exiting onto a ledge on the left. Finish up the short crack above.

Camalot   10m   Severe(2005)

10m further left past more broken rocks is a clean face seamed with cracks. Climb the short chimney crack on the left side of the face, with use of the crack on its right, to reach large ledges and easier climbing.

Guinevere   12m   VS 4c *(2006)

Immediately left of Camalot is a distinctive pinnacle with a crack in its front face. Climb the crack to where it ends and gain a ledge on the left.  Step boldly up onto the face of the pinnacle to reach good finishing holds. Climb down the back again to get off!

The crag now deteriorates into broken ground but reappears some 50m further left, at a slightly lower level, at an easy angled wall of slim pillars and broken cracks.

The cracks to the left are easy angled but heavily choked with vegetation. 30m left again is a final section of clean slabby wall seamed with cracks before the crag ends where a fence meets the rock.

On the Rocks   9m   VS 4c(2006)

Start 10m right of the fence, in the middle of the clean wall, just right of a large block. Climb the twin cracks to finish left of a prominent capping block on the skyline.

Southern Comfort   9m   Very Difficult(2006)

Takes the last clean crack line in a slight groove, some 5m right of the fence. Climb the crack and rib on its left to the top.

UPPER BUNKHOUSE CRAG

NG 268 057 Alt 100m South east facing

The upper crag is situated some 200 metres up to the right of Bunkhouse Crag above a small wood. The crag provides good quality, short routes at mainly reasonable grades. Very different in character to Bunkhouse Crag, the climbs are generally more varied, featured and easier angled – the buttresses between the crack lines are often climbable here!

Approach From the bunkhouse follow a path skirting the left edge of the wood. Go up at the left hand end of a broken lower band of rocks following a sheep track, which then leads to below the crag.

The highest section of crag is at the far right hand end, which terminates in a rounded buttress of knobbly rock and steep cracks. Routes are described from right to left.

Band of the Hand   7m   HVS 5b(2006)

Takes the widening jam crack on the right hand side of the final knobbly buttress. Climb the crack with help from good holds on the left wall. Exit on the left to avoid a heathery ledge.

Don’t Think Twice   7m   HVS 5a(2006)

Climbs the front face of the buttress avoiding the cracks on either side. Start immediately left of Band of the Hand. Use a flake and make a long reach to gain better holds up on the left. Pleasant climbing on large knobbles leads to the top.

Pressing On   7m   HVS 5c(2006)

The next crack line, a metre to the left has a distinctly overhanging start. Steep and awkward moves up rightwards through the bulge lead to easier climbing. Finish on the right.

Bob Dylan’s Dream   7m   HVS 5b *(2006)

The prominent crack 2m to the left with a slight bulge at half height. Easy climbing up to the bulge is followed by surprisingly technical layback and bridging moves in the upper section.

Like a Rolling Stone   8m   Hard Severe 4c **(2006)

Takes the obvious leftward trending crack/ramp line, starting 2m left of the previous route. Follow the pleasant crack then make awkward moves to gain a sloping shelf on the left. Continue more easily to the top.

Blowin’ in the Wind   7m   VS 4c **(2006)

The excellent crack line some 4m left of Like A Rolling Stone. Steep bridging enables good holds to be reached on the right. Continue more easily and finish on the right.

Chimes of Freedom   7m   HVS 5a(2006)

5m left again is a black groove containing two converging cracks. Climb the cracks to where they suddenly disappear just below the top. Step out boldly left onto the rib to finish (or go direct via a very difficult mantelshelf move).

Lone Pilgrim   7m   HVS 5a(2007)

2m left, the next feature is a narrow black wall bounded by cracks on each side. Start below the left hand crack at a short ramp. Step up to where the crack steepens.  Pull up past a good block hold then move delicately up the wall on the left side of the crack to reach better finishing holds.

5m left past a short nose topped by an area of  grass, is a slightly inset wall between two excellent corner cracks.

Forever Young   7m   HVS 5b *(2007)

The slim right hand corner has a thin intermittent crack. Climb this delicately with small holds on the left wall to reach a short jam crack. Pull up steeply and rightwards to finish.

Bob   6m   Severe **(2007)

A good route taking the prominent right facing corner and crack some 3m to the left of Forever Young.

To the left is an ivy-covered corner followed by a shorter section of crag before height is regained at an orange water worn buttress. The next recorded route is an obvious right facing chimney some 6m left of the orange buttress and 20m left of (Keith’s Route).

His   6m   Very Difficult(2006)

Climbs the twin cracks forming the obvious inset square chimney to the top.

Hers   7m   VS 5a(2006)

Start 3m left of His and follow the rightward trending crack line to a short vertical section and an awkward finish.

Dark Eyes   7m   VS 4c *(2007)

The next line is 3m left of Hers and consists of twin diverging cracks; the right one of which forms a large flake on the buttress. Move up, then bridge between the two crack lines until a good finishing crack can be reached on the left.

THE WATCH TOWER 

NG 257 054 alt 60m south facing

The main feature of the crag is the steep and impressive frontal face which reaches over 40 metres in height -Tower Face.  The Right Wing becomes gradually more vegetated as it looses height and recedes into the hillside.

TOWER FACE

Purple Haze   40m   E1 5a *(2003)

Takes an obvious groove system on the far left hand side of the face.  Start at an open scooped groove directly below a ledge with a tree at 7m.

Climb the groove to just below the tree, step across right into the main groove and follow this to a ledge.  Climb a crack on the left and up over blocks until a step back right can be made into the main line.  Go up over a bulge then continue more easily to below the final steep corner.  Make an awkward pull up leftwards into the corner and so to the top. 

SUBMERGED ROCK

NG 253 053 Alt 50m South facing

Submerged Crack   8m   Severe(2007)

Below Wave Crag and to the east is a little crag just west of a burn (there is a pinnacle to the right of the burn). There is a wide crack overlooking the burn, climb the crack to the left of this.

WAVE CRAG

NG 253 054 Alt 80m west, south and east facing

Approach: Going west along the track Wave Crag will be seen above the lower crags and appears like a volcanic plug with many cracks.

Descent: Down either side.

This is a small friendly crag in an idyllic setting.  Its east, south and west facing aspects allow the sun to be followed around all day.  The west face contains an obvious ‘wave’ rock formation and provides easier grade slab routes.  The frontal, south face contains steep thin crack lines and the east face comprises a long wall of more gently angled cracks and grooves.

WEST FACE

Minnow   8m   Difficult(2004)

The first obvious open groove starting at the extreme left end of the West Face.  Climb over blocks and up the groove to the top.

Smolt   10m   Very Difficult(2004)

Two metres right of Minnow is another groove which finishes in a larger left facing corner. Easily up the blocks, then follow the groove to the top.

The Wrong Trousers   13m   Severe(2004)

4 metres right of Minnow, three small grooves rise in an arc – with the middle groove capped at two-thirds height by a small roof (from a distance this gives the appearance of a ‘pair of trousers’).

Climb the left and middle grooves to the small roof, and finish up the left hand groove. 

Ernsie Bay   15m   Very Difficult(2004)

Climbs the suspended column that starts at half height immediately to the right of The Wrong Trousers’ left leg.  Step right near the top to finish up the short corner.

Side Surf   18m   Severe(2004)

Climb left up the obvious ramp-line below the overhangs, stepping right at its end.   Follow the slabby wall above, trending rightwards to finish up the right hand side of a hanging block. 

Finding Nemo   16m   VS 4c *(2003)

Takes a groove line through the overhangs 2 metres left of ‘Myrtle the Turtle’.  Start as for Side Surf at the foot of the leftward slanting ramp-line.  Step up right into the groove and up to overhangs.  Pull over and continue passing a second band of overhangs to finish up a pleasant groove.

Myrtle the Turtle   16m   Severe *(2003)

Start just right of the ‘wave’ rock formation, where a stepped corner leads to a slabby wall. Make an awkward move to gain a large square ledge at 2 metres.  Continue up thin cracks in the slab above to the top.

SOUTH FACE

Just right of ‘Myrtle the Turtle’ the crag steepens and provides some excellent vertical crack lines.  The first of these is a bow-shaped crack in a slim left facing corner, a metre right of ‘Myrtle the Turtle’.

The Pipeline   16m   HVS 5a *(2003)

Climb the crack, the first 5m being the crux, to where the angle eases.  Continue in the same line to the top.

Canna Jammer   16m   E1 5c *(2004)

Takes the prominent crack and right facing corner on the opposite side of the slim pillar to ‘The Pipeline’.  Follow the steep jamming crack to just below a small capping roof at 10 metres.  Pull out left into ‘The Pipeline’ and finish as for that route.

Big Sur   16m   E1 5c ***(2003)

The next vertical crack line in a slim left facing corner 2m right of the last route.  An excellent climb. Start just left of a short V-groove capped by a big square block at 6m. Make an awkward move onto a slabby shelf at the foot of the corner, then a difficult move to get started on the crack itself.  Follow the corner crack throughout, with holds appearing just when you need them.

Heroes and Villains   16m   E3 6a **(2006)

Takes twin thin cracks in the nose of the South Face. Start up the short V-groove capped by a big square block and pull up right onto a ledge. Step up left onto the highest ledge and climb the steep twin cracks to the top; fine, sustained and technical climbing.

Wipe Out   16m   E4 6a **(2005)

Another fine route giving technical climbing on thin finger slots. Start on the right hand side of the face and climb the stepped blocks leftwards to gain the highest ledge. Step across right to reach twin thin cracks in a slight groove and follow these direct to the top.

The Tube   15m   E1 5b *(2003)

The final route on the South Face, where the crag starts to turn easterly.

Takes parallel cracks in an inset square corner formed between two pillars.  A difficult start and some technical moves lead to better holds.  Pull onto the top of the left hand pillar to finish

EAST FACE (Left Side)

The Beach Boys   13m   HVS 5a *(2003)

Just right of ‘The Tube’ (on the other side of the pillar) is a hand crack in a right facing corner. Climb the crack to the top of the pillar and continue up the thin crack above.

Breaker   13m   Hard Severe(2003)

A stepped left facing corner line 3m right of ‘The Tube’. Easily up the corner, then an awkward move to gain a standing position on a large flat-topped pinnacle.  Step up left and up cracks to finish.

California Girls   13m   HVS 5a(2003)

Starts 2m right of Breaker at a short wide crack.  Climb the crack to a small overhang.  Follow the steep flake crack line above to reach ledges and easier ground.

Don’t Back Down   13m   VS 4b(2004)

The next crack line 3m to the right. Move up onto a good ledge at 3m. Climb the wide crack above to where it thins at another ledge. Make an awkward move up the pillar on the right to reach better finishing holds.

God Only Knows   13m   VS 4c(2006)

The fine looking crack right of Don’t Back Down was disappointing. Climb the crack using a couple of holds in Don’t Look Back, a purer ascent would probably be E1.

Wouldn’t it be Nice   13m   E2 5c(2006)

The twin cracks in the wall to the right. Sustained thin finger cracks with occasional holds on the wall. Much harder than it looks!

EAST FACE (Flying Buttress area)

About half-way along the East Face, at a point where the remnants of an old stone wall come up to meet the crag, is the unusual feature of ‘Flying Buttress’ (it is possible to squeeze right around the back of this buttress).

Some 8m left of ‘Flying Buttress’ (5m right of Don’t Look Back) is a prominent, detached 3m high pillar.

Surf’s Up   13m   Hard Severe *(2003)

Climbs the twin cracks immediately left of the pillar

Catch a Wave   13m   Severe(2003)

Climb up onto the pillar (the left side is easiest).  Continue up the crack and groove line above to the top.

I Get Around   13m   Hard Severe(2003)

Takes twin cracks in the wall a metre right of the pillar.

Good Vibrations   15m   Hard Severe *(2003)

A classic hand crack, 2m left of the chimney that forms the left hand side of ‘Flying Buttress’.  Follow the crack to the top.

Flying Buttress Left Hand   17m   Hard Severe(2003)

Climb the awkward chimney forming the left side of the buttress and pull right into a crack just below a large ledge.  Move up onto the pinnacle on the right and up a short wall to the top.

Flying Buttress Central   17m   Severe **(2003)

Follow twin cracks in the front face of the buttress to reach the large ledge on ‘Left Hand’ route.  Finish as for this.

Flying Buttress Right Hand   17m   VS 4c(2003)

The chimney forming the right hand side of the buttress provides sustained interest up to a big ledge at 10m.  A wide crack above leads to the top of a pinnacle.  Up the short wall to finish.

Still Cruisin’   20m   VS 4c *(2003)

Starts 2m right of the last route and takes twin cracks in an elegant inset square groove.  Climb the pleasant groove with an awkward move to gain a small ledge on the left at 13m.  Take the crack on the right to reach ledges and the top.

Slip on Through   20m   Severe(2003)

Starts 5m right of ‘Flying Buttress’ at a wide crack.  Climb the crack to gain a sentry box below an overhang.  Pull over and up onto a pinnacle.  Continue via the thin exposed crack to gain a ledge and easy ground.

Island Fever   20m   Severe(2003)

Starts 2m right of the last route and climbs a pleasant groove to a distinctive square overhang at 13m.  Step left and up a rib and steep cracks above to ledges and the top.

Finders Keepers   20m   Severe(2004)

Starts 2m right again by a small overhang at waist height. Climb the pleasant rib and cracks which steepen towards the top.

Losers Weepers   14m   Severe(2006)

Start 3m right and slightly higher. Climb up past heather to an overhang continue up the rib above.

MIDDLE ROCK

NG 253 054 Alt base 50m south facing

This steep crag lies below and slightly left of Wave Crag and just up to the right of Fun Buttress. The lower section is made up of typically steep basalt groove and crack lines. The top 10 metres however are particularly challenging, being mainly composed of compact overhanging flutings.

The only route so far takes the big left facing corner in the centre of the crag.

To Go Boldly   25m   E2 5c(2005)

Start at the lowest point of the crag below the prominent corner. Climb up onto a 4m high pillar at the base of the corner then make awkward moves up the corner to gain better holds. Continue up to the overhang and pull up right to a large ledge in a recess. Go up and leftwards across the impending wall to reach an obvious crack line. Climb the leaning wall just right of this on large hollow flakes to the top.

FUN BUTTRESS

NG 253 055 Alt 50m south west facing

Descent can be down to the left or right, or by scrambling up for a further six metres to re-join the hillside.

Fun Buttress is a small gritstone like outcrop that can be seen on the right of the stream when approaching ‘The Fortress’.  The grassy terrace at the bottom forms a good flat landing site despite the crag being situated on a steep hillside. The routes finish at around six metres at a ledge formed by the tops of pillars.

Cracking Up   Difficult(2004)

The crack on the far left which leads to a rib.

Chuckle Brothers   Very Difficult(2004)

Twin cracks in an inset square corner.

Laughter Line   HVS 5a(2004)

The steep S shaped crack in the centre of the buttress.

Comedy Crack   VS 5a(2004)

Takes the next crack in a slim left-facing corner.

Side Splitter   Very Difficult(2004)

The corner crack, formed by a pillar on the right side of the crag.  Finishes up left from the top of the pillar.

Caught Short   Difficult(2004)

Climb the arête of the short right hand pillar and finish up left to join the ledge.

THE FORTRESS

NG 252 055 Alt 50m south east facing

A steep and impressive crag of basalt columns forming a long line of vertical crack and groove systems. The crag is conveniently split into two wings by the Central Bay – an area of more broken rock leading to an open gully in its upper half.  The area immediately left of the Central Bay is easily recognised by a distinctive wall of black rock. 

THE LEFT WING

The Somme   15m   HVS 5a(2004)

Takes the first continuous groove line at the far left hand side of the crag  Move up a few metres over vegetated rock to a ledge at the base of twin cracks in an inset square corner.  Climb the steep cracks to gain an alcove.  Pull out left to a ledge and continue more easily up a groove to the top.

The Thin Red Line   25m   E5 6a ***(2008)

A tremendous climb, technical and sustained throughout, that takes the big white wall on the left side of the crag. Some 5m left of the prominent cleft of Helm’s Deep are 3 thin cracks in a white coloured section of wall.  Start off some broken blocks at the foot of the right hand thin crack/slim groove. Climb this for 7m past a long reach to a flat hold, then move left and go up steeply to bulges. Step left and up right again to enter a shallow right slanting groove and follow this to below the overhanging headwall. Step down left and launch boldly onto a line of obvious diagonal flakes that lead leftwards across the impending wall to reach a good ledge just below the top. Exit easily on the left.

Helms Deep   25m   E2 5c *(2003)

In the centre of the Left Wing is a corner system leading to a prominent hanging cleft in the upper part of the crag.  This is the line of Helms Deep.

The bottom section of the line is an unattractive corner.  Instead, start just to the right and climb a steep hand and fist crack in the wall to reach a sloping ledge at 10m.  Step left and follow the corner crack to where it steepens. Enter the hanging V groove with difficulty and so to the top.

The Alimo   25m   HVS 5a(2004)

Start below twin cracks a few feet right of Helms Deep.  Climb up past a flake projecting from the right hand crack and continue steeply to reach a big ledge at 10m.  Step up left to twin corner cracks and follow these to a large bay near the top.  Up the short corner to finish.

The Bastille   25m   E1 5b *(2003)

Starts 5m right of Helms Deep, directly below a projecting prow of rock which forms a prominent feature at the top of the crag.  The climb takes a crack system leading up to a corner bay on the immediate left side of the prow.

Climb a slim corner crack to a square roof at 4m.  Pull around its right side and up twin cracks to a large ledge.  Continue steeply in the same crack line to arrive at the bay on the left side of the prow (junction with The Alimo).  Easily up the short corner to the top.

Awesome   23m   E3 6a ***(2004)

The elegant V groove line, some 7m right of The Bastille and 2m left of an obvious 4m high detached pillar  An excellent route.

Climb the steep thin initial crack to a ledge on the right.  Pull over a slight bulge and follow the crack with occasional holds on the right arete to enter the main groove at half height. Continue up to reach a steep alcove near the top.  Pull up and out right onto a rib and up a short groove to finish.

Agincourt   23m   E1 5b(2008)

Takes the next obvious crack line 2m to the right, starting up the crack that forms the left side of the 4m high, detached pillar. Climb to ledges on top of the pillar then continue up the corner to an overhang formed by a hanging prow. Work up leftwards around the undercut prow to gain the groove above. Follow this and the continuation cracks to the top.

Battle of the Bulge   21m   E1 5b **(2003)

Takes a crack line on the left edge of the prominent black wall, to the left of the Central Bay area.  Start just right of the 4m high detached pillar.  Climb the obvious crack to where it steepens at half height.  Step up right to a thin curved crack and pull steeply over a bulge.  Continue more easily up the crack above.

Oh Black Betty   21m   E3 5c/6a *(2004)

Climbs twin thin cracks in the black wall, a metre right of Battle of the Bulge.  Follow the cracks with occassional holds on the left arete to gain a glacis in an alcove at half height.  Traverse right a couple of metres to the foot of a right facing corner. Up this, with an awkward start to reach good holds on the left.  Continue directly up the steep wall on widely spaced holds to the top.

CENTRAL BAY

Siege Tactics   20m   VS 4c(2004)

Start below the wide crack at the back of the Central Bay. Climb the crack (crux) passing a huge flake on the left wall to reach a ledge on the right at 8m.  Continue direct up more broken ground to finish.

Breach the Defences   20m   VS 4c(2005)

Start just right of Seige Tactics at an inset corner. Step up right into the corner (avoiding a spring at its base) and bridge up to the top of a pillar on the left at 8 metres.(junction with last route). Continue up more broken ground to the top (as for Seige Tactics).

RIGHT WING

The Right Wing is slightly shorter but generally steeper than the Left.  It is characterised by an intermittent line of overhangs at around half height for most of its length.  The first route lies 2m right of Breach of the Defences and takes a clean open right facing corner leading to roof at 10m.

Shades of Abraxus   20m   E2/3 5c **(2004)

A very good climb, sustained and well protected. Follow the corner until a hidden hold on the right wall leads to a position below the roof.  Traverse right a few metres, pull boldly through the overhang and continue up the steep crack line above to reach easier angled rock and the top.

About 10m right of the Central Bay is a tall slim pillar providing steep corners on both of its flanks.

The Two Towers   20m   E1 5b *(2005)

Takes the left facing corner on the left side of the pillar. Climb the corner crack to the overhang. Pull around this on the right and up steeply over blocks into a niche. Continue direct over a couple of bulges to the top.

Battle of Evermore   20m   E2 5c *(2003)

Takes the right facing corner on the right side of the pillar.  Climb the technical corner for 10m to below an overhang and pull out steeply left to a ledge on the pillar.  Continue steeply up cracks trending right on good, widely spaced holds to the top.

Jericho Corner   18m   HVS 5a **(2003)

Towards the right hand end of the crag, some 13m right of Battle of Everhard, is a prominent left facing corner.  Climb the corner crack for 8m to reach the right hand end of a band of overhangs.  Pull up right and follow the continuation ramp to the top.

Masada Pinnacle   18m   HVS 5a *(2003)

The next left facing corner a metre right of Jericho Corner.  Climb the widening crack for 10m to emerge on the top of a pinnacle.  Step up steeply leftwards onto a nose and continue on good holds to the top.

Trojan Wars   20m   VS 4c *(2004)

At the right hand end of the crag, on the wall overlooking the descent gully, is a stepped rightward trending ramp line. 

Start just right of Masada Pinnacle.  Climb the initial crack for 7m to a ledge then follow the steps up and rightwards.  Traverse the top ledge rightwards to its end then move up steeply to gain a short exit groove.

Troy   15m   E1 5b(2004)

A direct line through Trojan War.  Start 5m up the descent gully at twin cracks leading to the top step on Trojan Wars.  Climb the cracks passing a wedge shaped block in the right hand one to reach ledges.  Move up and climb the impending wall direct for a few metres then go leftwards to gain a slim left facing groove.  Continue more easily to the top.